"Harper’ Yes Bazaar》From the March issue this year, it has made a comprehensive and in-depth report on the "luxury goods industry".Xie Kezhen continued the article "How high-end consumption is a dose of aphrodisiac in the post-inflation era" and the observation before and after the exhibition.Explanation2024Yearly trends. First, compare2021to2023The global luxury industry performance growth rate in double digits in 2019,2024Year only2~4%, "In the luxury industry, the United States is the basic market and China is the propulsor. If we look at the growth rate of the personal luxury market, the United States market is-8%, China has shrunk to less than double digits, showing that people choose to keep their money in their pockets due to inflation.Some economists describe the current state as "Darwinian era"——That is, the survival of the fittest, the industry is reshuffling, and therefore many high-quality products with historical heritage choose "return to the essence".Go back to your own story and think about new strategies. "

"Harper’s Bazaar》Editor-in-chief Xie Kezhen.

When buying becomes a refined experience

Inflation has spawned new consumer behavior, Xie Kezhen emphasized three major phenomena:have toVIC(Very important customers) Those who win the world, hermit consumption, and age-abortioning. "VICAlthough it only accounts for the total consumer group2%, but can provide40%output value. Therefore, this year's watch exhibition has appeared many watches of tens of millions, including limited edition, customized models, large and complex models, representingVICThey are completely unaffected by inflation, and they are still willing to pay a lot of money to collect high-priced items. "
   
"Herfather consumption" is a product of consumption habits and subsequent epidemics. "During the epidemic, people have been at home for a long time, and people pay attention to the comfort of their home environment. After the epidemic eases,The behavior of paying attention to experience and feelings also accompanying consumers to go out of the house. "As a result, high-end customized tourism emerged, and the experiential luxury goods industry showed a big explosion. Consumers not only bought a watch, but from entering watch stores, appreciating, consuming, and after-sales service, brands are busy providing exquisite "experiences" :For example, Audemars Piguet watch createdAP House,Cartier Sculpture StoreCartier Maison,BoucheronFrom Place de France in Paris26The French boutique apartment style extended by the No. 1 main store is obvious.

Neutral wind is hot   "Age-abortion" pattern gradually emerges

"The Japanese Hakuhodo Life Comprehensive Research Institute published a report last year: "Age elimination" has occurred in today's society - consumption behavior is gradually no longer in the age difference.from20Years to69There is no obvious gap between the values ​​and consumption orientations of the year, even20Women who are old will appreciate it40,50Mature and fashion at age groups. "for exampleBalenciagaLast year, the first brand ambassador was announcedIsabelle Huppert, and then joined the endorsementNicole KidmanMichelle Yeoh is both senior mature women and actresses;LoeweCome to the UK88A national treasure actorMaggie SmithShoot image advertisements,Elon MuskMother,72Aged modelMaye MuskIt is even more beautiful and beautiful on many stands. The style they lead does not matter age, but attitude.In addition, the neutral trend and gender-free trend that appeared before "aging aging" is still growing, which can be seen in the "general trend" sports watch trend in recent years, such as the boundaries between men and women's watches becoming blurred, and the watches are being revised down. The size and the dial are more colorful, all to expand the wider customer base.

Fashion brandBalenciagaThe customer base positioning is also gradually becoming "age-elimination".

Xie Kezhen particularly appreciates the trend of "gold watches" in recent years, including Vacheron Constantin, Earl, Rolex, Tudor, etc., which may have "old gold watches" that have been reborn in the retro era, or are lined with precious metals in new color dials. For example, the "pink dial" is no longer a woman's patent.Zenith Chronomaster Sport Pink,Tudor   Black Bay ChronoThe pink model makes men's watches rush to pose.

countPIAGET Polo 79series18KGold ultra-thin automatic winding watch, equipped with Piaget homemade1200P1Movement.

A storyteller is a winner

Exploring the future of the industry, Xie Kezhen pointed out that the attack was from "Gen Z"(refers to1990The end of the year to2010Born early in the yearDigital native generation) Becoming the new darling of media slogans, it can be seen that the industry is trying every means to capture the tastes of this consumer group.But in a moment of digital mixed flow, he hopes to maintain his relationship with collectors. She shares the British high-end second-hand watch trading platform under Richemont GroupWatchfinder & Co., published this yearGen ZData report on watch purchase behavior, noting41%Gen ZHave more than one high-end watch, the average purchase price is about11,000US dollars, "compared to millennials (approximately5,300US dollars),XGeneration (approximately5,400US dollars), baby boomers (less than3,000US dollars),Gen ZFor investment and purchase of high-end watches,There is greater interest than real estate, gold, etc. "The reason is closely related to virtual currency investment and digital finance. However, due to the rapid circulation of information,Gen ZBrand loyalty is not high, over-embracing and relying on itGen ZConsumption,There is a crisis for the brand.
   
In terms of buying high-end watches, Xie Kezhen believes that collectors andGen ZThe common points of the two ethnic groups are impressed by "style", such as the classic new generations of the old era:ChaumetHigh Jewelry of the YearChaumet en ScèWoolen clothWith music and dance as the theme, it echoes the past when the brand store was once the former residence of Chopard; for example, the material application pointing to the new era -HublotThe unique sapphire crystal technology transforms new colors every year,Many Hollywood celebrities and sports stars are fascinated by it."So, those who can tell stories are the biggest winners." Return to core values, This is the way to support the brand.

Chaumet en ScèneSeries of high-end jewelryBallet, full of dance flow.